The Blog about Diorama Clervaux


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Lower parts finished tiling

, 02:50

You have to believe me that i also finished tiling the other lower side. The picture would be the same. I also added one finishing row of tiles on the top.

The next work is to prepare as much tiles as possible for the upper part.

See my book how i make these!

Aspargus Plumosis

, 01:48

Let's take a break from this tiling stuff!

One of the most used plants to scratchbuild fir's is the "Aspargus plumosis"

As is already made some and need soon a lot more to make a whole forest i bought some seeds and raised them myself.
I recently harvested a good part of it. This was the third time already as the Aspargus develops new fronds regularly. For what ever it is worth i sprayed it with hair spray once.
This is the harvest from only three plants!

For those not knowing the plant here is a close up and beneath what i made of it. This trees are only around 10 cm high

Faster then expected

, 11:03

Well, i had a very productive weekend and was able to do more then expected. I finished the lower part of one side completetly. I worked about 14 hours to get that done!

Organisation of roof tiling

, 00:00

Roof tiling has a few rules to follow, one of them is to start at the bottom. To do that everything has to be finished before starting really. So i needed to finish first the dormers. Completely! I copied my original 6 times, hoping that my 5 year old resin (with a shelf life of 1 year) still cures correctly.

Only one did not really cure well but that was more a problem of getting the quantities exactly right with this low amounts needed. After that comes priming, brown base color and my first try on the hair spray technique with a white covering afterwards I think i waited to long before starting the treatement, the result is somewhat ok, so i leave it like that. Fixed it in place also then I redid the tiling shown on my former update at least three times before finally having the distances right. No i am really of the starting block

I will not update so often for the next days as i doubt that you are interested in having an update after each row of tiles.


, 00:00

LOL, i let you guys figure out the english translation, but this is the term for this style of tiling. To get it somewhat right I am relying on a book for apprentice roofers.
From a sheet of Plasticcard i am cutting out the square slates (1 centimeter) and am rounding them on one corner. This is what my workbench looks then. (i am a kitchen refugee for the moment as the other room is to cold)
Tiling work starts according to the book (see above). Best thing is to start a few already, they are fixed well enough tomorrow to continue. Glueing is done with carpenters glue.

Gutter - How to video

, 00:00

I made gutters for the house and tried for a first time to record it with the cam on the small camera. Hope you like this little tutorial


, 00:00

Let me start making the dormers as i need 6 of them and i intent to do resin copies of an original. First the original: From a 2 mm piece of Plasticcard i am cutting out this here
inserting the window frame

Now i am closing the roof, holes for the dormers cut out. See the first phase of copy making on the foreground, a silicon mould
The facade is protected to avoid getting to much dust behind the steel gate. And the first copy in the making with resin (the mould on the right side), from beginning to this point 5 hours time. With the leftover resin i always fill former moulds instead of throwing it away

No time to waist !

Placing side walls

, 12:32

After having decorated the shop windows with window dummy's and some background, i glued the side and backwalls to the front.
The roof design will be my own creatuion as i do not have areference photo.

Iron Gate is done

, 18:26

I took this occasion to try for the first time the salt technique to corrode the gates, supposly closed since years because of the war. With all modesty :-) , i think the result looks not to bad. What do you think?
Forget about the blurd image, i have a bit of focus problems with my pics lately. Here is how it looks when fixed in place. Unfortunaltely the lettering is nearly invisible now.


I need to adress the lower part of the facade now. The Gesso left a gummy smooth surface unsuitable to good painting.

A steel folding gate

, 06:00

Barely visible on the reference picture is a steel gate in front of the shop window, i presume a folding one. Not having the english name for such a gate until today, i only found one good reference picture
It was easier then anticipated to copy it. Using Styrene strips and copper foil i previously passed through the pasta machine, i quickly did those two in two evenings

Window making

, 00:00

No big mystery her to do the windows. Get plastic strips, imagine a design or try to copy an existent one and start glueing. I should have payed better attention to the Balsa cases. I did not do nice rectangular, even measured pieces and had a lot of problems getting these windows done. The gummy coat of Gesso did not help me either as i could not sand the Balsa anymore. Before attaching the clear styrene as glass i painted them completely using acrylic base color and VanDyick oil color as cover in an attempt to simulate dark wood. Self made decals are applied to the white color base to do the shop lettering.
window1 window2

First Look

, 09:51

All gaps are then closed with either an Acrylic paste or plaster and one coat of Gesso is applied over everything to close the tiny unregularities of Styrodur

The sill was attached using a piece of Balsawood. I sanded out the slight hollow pattern. It was then coated with diluted Tamiya Putty. A first coat of very fine sand from the IKEA flower shop did not uniformly cover the different colors.


, 09:45

Those of you following my builds since years know my way of doing window cases. I build them out of Balsa wood and slde them in place


A bit of an alternative to this is used to roughly do the shopwindow



, 00:00

As this is going to be a row of over a meter, i wanted a light bend in the street. House Kratzenberg was coud for that as it is pretty long and has basically two parts. I did the bend by cutting the Styro and reglueing it at a slight angle.

Blogpic009.jpg Blogpic010.jpg

Allowing enough drying time was crucial


, 00:00

I had the opportunity to get a new reference picture from the centre of Clervaux town. This shop recently had 140 year anniversary since foundation! Blogpic007.jpg

Clervaux being a touristic site due to his location and the castle, only a very few photos had ever being shot from the rural town itself. So i was lucky getting this one from the 40ties. It is of course not possible for me to place this houses at there exact location. I changed myinitial layout to make room for this building. By chance, i got just enough centimeteres to squezze this house in the existing row.

Module No.4

, 00:00

This Blog is about part 4 of "Diorama Clervaux". Part 1, the castle, is very well covered in my book, parts 2 and 3, called by myself Clervaux-village and Clervaux- the annexes, have recently be finished and already presented in one exposition with great success. Let us call this part Clervaux - the village grows, sounds a bit nicer then Module No.4.

This part will be a bit easier as i can finally use a few buildings i made a few years ago as a training for the castle build. You will see them during the Blog. Back from the expo, i had better space in my garage so i immediately build the modules 4 and 5. Construction work is always done in another workroom.


Did you do your homework?

, 21:07

As is need to go back in time to start this Blog anyway i would like to ask ou if you had done your homework at New Years day? Every diorama builder must get out this day to collect the wood strips from Sylvester firecrackers! They are excellent for roofwork, joists and beams. You will also save money and do something for the environement! Blogpic019.jpg

The umbrella

, 00:00

At some point I started working on the umbrella. I had a little bell to use as a template. The umbrella ribs (hope It is the right word) are positioned on the bell and fixed in the plasticine

The bell is covered with a coat of Vaseline to avoid the tissue to stick on it. I covered it with a tissue soaked in Mod Podge. I ordered that one to try it out for my rain element of the dio. I brushed more on it and tried to get it as straight as possible.

after drying

and after lifting off


I then cut it down to the good part, primed it black. My original ribs got submerged by the wet tissue and essentially just assured the umbrella look of the whole thing but I had to remodel the visible ribs on the inside with 0,25 mm lead wire.

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